INGREDIENT NOTES: If you can’t find ‘nduja or gochujang, harissa paste is a good substitute. It’s also vegetarian. Taste it before you use it, as different brands of harissa have different levels of spice – start with 2 tablespoons of harissa paste if yours is particularly spicy. You could also use sriracha, or use finely chopped chorizo or another spicy sausage. You can play around with your cheeses here, too – use all cheddar if you like, or your favorite cheese. Try to make sure it’s a nice, strong-flavored cheese so you can really taste it in the sauce. I’ll often add some creamy blue cheese! Skip the gremolata if you like – it provides a lovely zesty element that cuts through the richness of the mac and cheese, but it’s equally as wonderful without it. Or, sprinkle over scallions and crispy onions.

MAKE AHEAD: If you want to make the mac and cheese ahead of time, you’ll need to add a little liquid to it as you reheat it. You can either reheat it on the stovetop or in the microwave. I like to add a couple of tablespoons of water, just to help the sauce loosen up. The pasta will keep absorbing liquid as it cools, which is why you’ll need to do this.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS: The mac and cheese will keep well for five days in the fridge, stored in an airtight container. Store any leftover gremolata separately and spoon it over the top after you’ve reheated the pasta.