Bake the tater tots. Heat your oven to 400°F (200°C fan) and lightly grease a mini muffin pan with the olive oil spray (you can also rub the pan with oil or butter using parchment paper). Arrange 2 frozen tater tots in each hole (they don't have to fit perfectly at this point). Transfer to the oven and bake for 10 minutes, until they've softened but they're not crispy.

Form the tots into cups. Remove the pan from the oven, then use the back of a teaspoon to press the tots into little cup shapes, pushing the potato up the sides and pressing down to form a base. Sprinkle the bottom of each cup with a little everything bagel seasoning.

Bake the cups again until crispy. Pop the mini muffin pan back into the oven for 15 minutes, until the cups are gorgeously golden and crispy around the edges. Remove from the oven, and let them cool in the pan for about five minutes before gently removing them.

Make the whipped Boursin. While the hash brown cups bake, add the Boursin cheese, two tablespoons of Greek yogurt, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, half the lemon zest, and a good grind of black pepper to a bowl. Mix until soft and fluffy. I like to transfer the mixture to a piping bag at this point for easy assembly, but you can also just spoon the mixture into the cups.

Assemble the cups. Arrange the crispy hash brown cups on a serving platter. Either pipe or spoon in enough of the whipped Boursin to fill the cups, then top with a couple of slices of smoked salmon. Finish by scattering the cups with everything bagel seasoning, fresh chives, the remaining lemon zest, and a little piece of pickled red onion or a couple of capers if you're using them. Serve right away.